川久保的品牌首次亮相是在1969年,1973正式创立以东京巴黎为根基的时装品牌。以先锋艺术设计名头,mei xue
9Focusing on the extraordinary costumes that Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo created for Merce Cunningham’s 1997 dance Scenario, this exhibition explores the collaboration between the Japanese fashion designer and the legendary choreographer.
Kawakubo has spoken of the impetus for that body of work: “Fashion was very boring, and I was very angry. I wanted to do something extremely strong. It was a reaction. The feeling was to design the body.” Like the runway pieces, the costumes she subsequently made for Scenario also featured down padding that formed irregular bulges on the dancers’ hips, shoulders, chests, and backs. The garments altered the performers’ proportions and sense of their own bodies as well as their balance and spatial relations to each other, radically affecting movement itself.
Although partnerships with other artists were integral to Cunningham’s artistic vision, his invitation to Kawakubo was the first he’d made to a designer of haute couture. As with all of his colleagues, he embraced chance, giving Kawakubo free reign to create the costumes and stage design for his dance Scenario (1997). She had initially declined but changed her mind while creating her notorious spring/summer 1997 Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection, which insiders later dubbed the “lumps and bumps” show.
Also responsible for Scenario’s stage and lighting concepts, Kawakubo, with designers Takao Kawasaki and Masao Nihei, created a stark white, fluorescent-lit setting. “I was interested in the defiance and fusion of the dancers within a limited and fixed white frame,” Kawakubo explained. “I didn’t want a ‘stage’ feeling, but more like a room, which the audience would feel they shared with the dancers.”
source: Walker
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